Hair and Makeup Artists Secrets for Photo Shoots

Using makeup artists for photo shoots is extremely important if you want WOW photos.
Don’t be foolish enough to think that you are going to be able to do a great job of your own hair and makeup AND then get in front of the camera and model. When a model is in front of the camera, they have absolutely no idea how how they look.

A good makeup artist will make you look your best and also works with the photographer as a second set of eyes to insure that things always look great while the photos are being taken.

You can quote me when I tell you that ANY photographer who is willing to shoot your portfolio with you doing your own hair and makeup is a hack! This is a person who has no sense of quality and simply does not care about the outcome of your photographs and ultimately your success.

Be sure to read the articles linked here for more information about selecting and working with a makeup artist, as well as a comprehensive directory of makeup artists from across the United States.

The lowdown:

-Creating make-ups and hairstyles to meet production requirements
-Overseeing make-up and hair continuity during filming
-Working to the Make-up and Hair Designer’s brief

Is this role right for me?

To do this role, you will need to:
-possess hairdressing skills including: cutting, waving, straightening, non-permanent colouring, setting, applying extensions, braiding, shaving; wig setting and dressing; and applying, dressing and applying facial hair
-possess make-up skills including: straight corrective; ageing face, hands and neck; contouring effects; and some specialised techniques such as creating tattoos and body painting
-have a good eye for colour
-have manual dexterity, necessary for the creation of hair and make-up styles and effects
-have an understanding of the anatomy of the human skull and facial muscle structure
-be able to break down scripts in terms of make-up and hair plots
-be able to define the overall look of the production and re-create it
-have excellent communication skills, including diplomacy and sensitivity in working with actors
-be able to problem-solve creatively
-pay close attention to detail in overseeing continuity
-be highly organised
-have good presentation skills
-be able to work effectively as part of a team
-be able to work calmly and efficiently under pressure to meet deadlines
-have good IT skills
-have stamina to cope with the physical demands of the role
-have language skills, ideally, for foreign shoots
-understand the requirements of the relevant health and safety legislation and procedures
-a full EU driving licence

What does a Make-up and Hair Artist do?

Make-up and Hair Artists must be able to create make-ups and hairstyles to meet production requirements. They oversee make-up and hair continuity during filming and remove products as required. Make-up and Hair Artists are employed throughout pre-production and production, and usually work on a freelance basis.

Make-up and hair are key elements in the overall design of films and television productions, creating a look for the characters in relation to social class, and time periods, and any other elements required to create the desired illusion.

On film and TV dramas, their work is directed by Make-up and Hair Designers who provide them with detailed notes, character and scene breakdowns and, if necessary, reference pictures about the characters they must create. Sometimes, they may only receive a rough brief, and must produce their own script breakdown, and research and create their own design notes.

They work on principal and supporting Actors, usually looking after several actors throughout the shoot. They must maintain the continuity of the actors' ‘look’.

On smaller productions, they negotiate terms with suppliers and wig and prosthetic makers, providing them with design specifications and ensuring that they deliver on time. They discuss colour palettes with Production Designers and Costume Designers. They make appointments for, and if necessary, go with actors to wig fittings, facial hair fittings, prosthetic castings, optician and dental appointments.

Personal Make-up and Hair Artists are specifically requested by one of the principal Actors to work on their make-up and hair. Although they receive a rough brief from the Make-up and Hair Designer, they prepare their own script breakdown, and research and create their own designs.

Dailies work on productions on a day-to-day basis, usually on large crowd scenes.

In all cases, Make-up and Hair Artists check whether actors have any skin and/or scalp conditions in advance, and make sure that any allergies or sensitivities are taken into consideration. They must also carry out full risk assessments and develop procedures to control risks.

They apply make-up, affix prosthetics, wash, cut, blow-dry, style and set hair, apply products and use specialised techniques to create specific designs. They set and dress wigs and hairpieces, and work with facial hair and false pieces, such as beards and moustaches. They may also apply special effects make-up, e.g., grazes, cuts and bruises, and bald caps.

They usually accompany their performers onto set, standing by to touch up make-up between takes, and ensuring that continuity notes are maintained using photographs. When the scenes have been shot, they remove performers' make-up, washing out products from their hair and conditioning it. They remove wigs and prosthetics, ensuring that they are cleaned and prepared for further use.

Will I need a qualification?

You will need to achieve at least a level 2 vocational qualification or equivalent in media make-up and a level 2-3 NVQ in hairdressing, or the equivalent of two years’ experience.

You will need to keep up to date with new methods and materials, so further qualifications and additional skills may be acquired by attending specialist short courses.

If you have any experience of working in a salon, theatre or wig makers, this would be to your advantage.

What’s the best route in?
To progress to this role, you will usually need to have worked in the film and/or television industries for up to 10 years. You will probably have started out as a Make-up and Hair Trainee, progressing to be a Make-up and Hair Assistant, before becoming a Make-up and Hair Artist working on larger and more complex productions.

Where might the role take me?

You could progress to become a Make-up and Hair Designer. Your progress will be determined by your skills and experience, which you’ll develop through on-the-job training, assisting established Make-up and Hair Artists. You should maintain a portfolio of your work, and keep all letters and testimonies as evidence of your work and experience.

SECRETS FROM PHOTO SHOOTS:

You’ve probably heard about and seen all the Photoshop controversy when it comes to photo shoots. It’s no surprise; since that little computer program can do everything from erase a pimple to give a plus-sized gal a swimsuit model body.

*But, Photoshop isn’t the only trick up celebs’ sleeves, heck; it’s not even the best one. That’s why we grilled hairstylists, makeup artists and fashion stylists to find out what really goes on behind the scenes at photo shoots. Who spilled: Byron Williams of the Byron and Tracey Salon in Los Angeles, New York City based hairstylist Charles Baker Strahan, New York City based makeup artist Quinn Murphy, Miami based makeup artist Marissa Nemes, and fashion editor and stylist Stephanie Prommer.

And because they’re all awesome, they gave us the full scoop on tricks and secrets from photo shoots. Not only that, they gave us tons of tips that us “real women” can use at home. Everything from ways to get your hair and makeup to last through a 10-hour shoot (or, er, a late night partying), to the perfect poses to hide everything from less-than-toned arms to a double chin (yep, even models and celebrities need to use these methods sometimes). The bottom line is that practically anyone can look model pretty once they know these secrets.

Try them out, have a friend snap some photos and marvel at the difference. Pretty sure your Facebook profile pic just got a whoooole lot better.

*HOW MODELS FAKE THEIR EIGHT HOURS

Murphy says, “Often times when a model or celebrity arrives on set for a photo shoot, she has come directly from a flight and another time zone.” Translation: she looks dead tired, with bloodshot, red, glazed over eyes.

The fix: “I reach for my trusted Rohto eye drops, made in Japan (I like the one with the emerald green cap). Though they do burn a little, they work miracles, within seconds your eyes are whiter and clearer than if you had gotten eight hours of sleep. This trick also works well after a long night of partying.” Hmm, that’s just what we were thinking

*THE HAIR IT’S FAKE
Williams confessed: “literally in 80 percent of photo shoots the hair is enhanced with extensions.” He said it was one of the biggest secrets of the biz. So don’t get jealous of those models with crazy long and full heads of hair odds are good it’s not all real.

If you want to go for that look you could try clip in extensions, but Williams says you can still get a similar style just by doing a good blow out.

*HOW TO GET MASCARA-AD LASHES
Nemes admits, “it is sometimes difficult to get every single lash with a regular mascara wand.” Her solution: “A little trick I learned along the way is to dip a mini fan brush into the mascara to really get in there. This way, I am able to precisely paint every single lash with mascara.”

Basically, you just swipe a fan brush along the mascara wand to get the product on there, then brush it on your lashes, both under and on top for some major drama.

*TAILORING ON THE FLY
It always looks like clothes in magazines were made specifically for the model or actress; they fit so well. But Prommer says, “When you see a great photo of a celebrity on the cover of a magazine, you’d be surprised to know that in many cases, if they turned around there would be an array of clips and pins across their back making their clothing look more fitted.”

Since magazines will get sample sizes of clothes, they may not always fit the girl meant to wear them. Prommer revealed some other tricks of the trade: “Double-sided tape is a necessity on a fashion shoot, and is used for everything from keeping plunging necklines from exposing too much to hemming pants on a moment’s notice. I always keep a few pieces of Hollywood Fashion Tape in my handbag as well, in case I need to fix a gaping buttonhole or keep my bra strap from showing.”

We say, if you have the time, get it tailored. But if you’re running out the door and realize your jeans are way too long for your shoes  tape works like a charm.

*MODELS WEREN’T BORN WITH SOFT LIPS
Another side effect of constant travel and late nights: dry, chapped lips. So when a model shows up on the set with a pair of these, Nemes has a solution:

“If a model’s lips are dry, chapped or flaky, I take some raw sugar, mix it with a bit of Jo Malone Vitamin E Gel, massage it on the lips for a minute and wipe it off with a damp cloth.” This is definitely one trick we can all try at home (and really you can use any brand of Vitamin E for the same effect).

*GET A MODEL-PERFECT WINDBLOWN LOOK
Models often have crazy, tousled hair, but one thing they don’t have: flyaways. Strahan shares his secret to get rid of them, without getting a helmet-head look:

“Spray some aerosol hairspray on a kabuki brush [try Ulta Professional Kabuki Brush, $26]. Be sure to spray the brush, NOT the hair directly … you want to lightly dust the hair around your part with the brush. This will smooth away any flyaways on the part and works like magic.”

*BEAUTY DOESN’T ALWAYS TAKE HOURS
Sometimes on photo shoots, the makeup artists have limited time to make models look flawless. When that happens, Nemes turns to her secret weapon:

“I absolutely live for NARS The Multiple sticks, especially if I am running on a tight schedule. I use these cream-to-powder sticks on the eyes, lips, cheeks and the body to sculpt, stain and highlight. I also mix NARS Copacabana or Maldives Multiples with body lotion and apply all over the body to create a beautiful harmonized glow. The light picks up every gorgeous angle of the body and the photos are flawless.”

*LOOK LIKE A MODEL IN YOUR TARGET SUNDRESS
Sure, most of the time models are wearing designer clothes that cost hundreds of dollars, but even if your budget doesn’t go beyond the sales rack at Macy’s you can still look fab. The key: getting a perfect fit.

It may sound crazy, but spending a couple dollars to have your clothes tailored can make a HUGE difference. Prommer says, “If you have a sundress that you love but the straps are a little long, consider taking it to a tailor to have them shortened. It only costs about five bucks, and you’ll be amazed at how much better you feel about yourself when you don’t have to tug at the bust of your dress all day long.” Remember, fidgeting does not equal sexy.

Another tip to always look your best: Posture (yes, mom was right). “It seems simple, but walking and standing with confidence will also make your clothes look better,” Prommer says. “If you slump your shoulders, it automatically pushes your tummy out, and that’s not a flattering look no matter your size.”

*STEAL THE “WET LOOK”
You know those shots of models looking all dewy, like they just danced the night away? And you know how you look after dancing the night away? It’s just not the same, is it? That’s because those models haven’t perspired one bit, they’re made up to look dewy and flushed. Nemes explains how:
“When I work this look, Australian Paw Paw cream [you can find it here or try using Vaseline or clear lip gloss] and Rosebud Salve, $6 are my go-to products.

1. For those glistening eyelids, I start off by drawing a tight line around the eyes with Korres Natural Products Eyeliner Pencil in Black, $16, top it with mascara and then I smooth on Paw Paw cream all over the lid from inner corner to the crease without smudging the line.

2. If you want amp up the eyes, add on rosebud salve, which will create a higher dose of glossiness.

3. I use Benefit Benetint, $28 on the apples of the cheeks to make the model look sunkissed, a little rosebud salve on the cheekbones and a bit on the lips to finish off the look.

*GET A HAIRSTYLE THAT LASTS
Normally on a photo shoot the hairstylist will be on hand to fix any drooping styles, but even still a look has to last under the hot lights and possible fans. Williams shared some of his favorite tips to keep your hair looking camera-ready all day:

1. For hair that is naturally straight, add Moroccan Oil, and go over your hair with a flat iron to keep it sleek and smooth.

2. If you want to straighten curly hair, apply a heavy product like Davines Relaxing Fluid, before blow drying. After you’ve dried and straightened your hair, finish with hairspray.

3. If you hair is naturally wavy or curly and you want it to look frizz-free all day, apply Moroccan Oil Curl Cream, while your hair is damp and let it air dry.

4. If you want to add curl to straight hair, the best way is to use a curling iron and finish with hairspray.

*STRIKE A POSE
We always thought the idea of “modeling school” was kind of a joke. Uh, you just stand there and smile while they take your picture, right? Well, this advice (plus marathon sessions of “America’s Next Top Model”) has totally changed our minds. Here are four quick tips to look extra hot in photos:

1. “If you want to look your best in a photo, try not to stand with your body straight at the camera.
Take a tip from celebrities on the red carpet and try turning your body three-quarters to one side, placing your hand that’s closest to the camera on your hips, and swiveling your face back around to face the lens,” Prommer says. (We recommend practicing in the mirror a couple times so you don’t look awkward.)

2. “Putting your hand on your hip makes your upper arm look thinner, because your arm usually flattens and widens out when it hangs straight at your side,” she says. Plus, it adds some at-ti-tude to all your snapshots (kidding).

3. “If you’re concerned about a double chin or excess skin on your neck, try to make sure that you are photographed from above  never straight at your face or from below. To do this, you can sit and have the person with the camera stand in front of you to take your photo while you raise your face slightly to look into the lens,” Prommer says. Or just hand your tallest friend the camera and declare him or her the paparazzo for the night.

4. Take a cue from celebs and get creative with props. “For example, if you see a photo in a magazine where a female celebrity is standing behind something in a photograph, it could be to de-emphasize her bottom half to make her appear thinner,” Prommer says. Also, “if one of her arms or hands is positioned by her side or her hip, it’s to make her thighs look smaller in proportion.” Sneaky

*FULL LIPS MINUS COLLAGEN
Not all celebs get injections for fuller lips. Nemes says makeup can work wonders to give thin lips a fuller appearance. Here’s her step-by-step:

1. I start off by drawing on a matte lipstick or lipliner in any color with my lip brush to fill in the entire lip.

2. I then dab on a lighter colored opaque gloss right in the middle of the bottom lip and slightly blend it outwards. The model mixes her lips once and I dab again.

3. I then take a [shimmery, highlighter] eye shadow or a multiple stick and apply it on the cupid’s bow of the upper lip. The light will pick up on the highlights that I’ve created on the lip, giving off a softer and fuller lip without it looking overdone. For a completely matte look, I substitute the opaque gloss and use a sheer-pearl eye shadow right in the middle of the lip.

*A FRIENDLY REMINDER
If you ever catch yourself sighing at a magazine image of a “perfect” model or celebrity, remember these words of wisdom from Prommer:

“NO ONE is flawless or has a perfect body no matter how famous they are and the right clothing, lighting, body position and retouching will do wonders to make someone look their best Photoshop can do wonders these days, and can even change the shape of a person’s body or the color of their clothes.”