8 Ways to Save Your Thinning Hair

You're convinced that the shedding is never going to stop, and you'll end up balder than a baby (that's what really scares you). But the problem may not be as dire as you think. "At some point after 40, hair fibers get thinner and your ponytail diameter may shrink," says Wilma Fowler Bergfeld, M.D., senior dermatologist at the Cleveland Clinic in Ohio. "As a result, you think you're losing your hair, whether it's happening or not.” If concerns over sparser locks are rattling you, here's what works — and when to call in the pros.

1. Switch to a thickening shampoo and conditioner.
Look for ingredients like panthenol (vitamin B5) and oat protein, which will fatten up your strands. And don't skip conditioner, even if it usually makes your hair limp. Instead, apply before you shampoo (hair will be less greasy) or use a lighter formula on ends. "The cuticles on hair are like shingles on a roof," says Thom Priano, a hairstylist at Garren New York in New York City. "When you omit the conditioner step, you get more friction, which in turn further stresses damaged hair."

2. Try styling solutions that don't require heat.
"I tell my clients with thinning hair to avoid heat, overstyling, and tight ponytails whenever possible. The constant pull weakens the hair follicle," says Priano. Whenever possible, let hair air-dry. If you do blow it dry, prep locks with a heat-protective primer like Sally Hershberger Style Primer for Normal to Thin Hair ($11,amazon.com). Then turn the dryer to the low or medium setting, or use a diffuser on curls. Between washes, boost volume by spritzing dry shampoo at the roots.

3. Consider a new cut.
"Many times a hairdresser can do more for you than I can," says Philadelphia dermatologist George Cotsarelis, M.D., director of the University of Pennsylvania Hair and Scalp Clinic. Hair-thickening options include a layered or shaggy cut, deep bangs that mask sparse areas around your temples, or a "messy" style with an off-center part.

4. Try a new color.
Hair dye may be the best medicine. "Adding color can rough up the cuticle, which makes hair drier but thicker," says Dr. Bergfeld. To maintain elasticity, try a once-weekly mask such as L'Oréal Professionnel Force Vector Reinforcing Anti-Breakage Masque ($20, amazon.com). Avoid extremely dark or light shades (which both draw attention to the scalp). And build depth with a few carefully placed highlights or lowlights around the face — too many highlights may weaken strands.

5. Stock up on some vitamin D.
Vitamin D may also be key to hair vitality, according to some research. "Increasing vitamin D stores seems to bring hair back," says Dr. Bergfeld, who advises getting dosing advice for these supplements from your doctor.

6. Look into growth boosters.
The only FDA-approved treatment for hair loss in women is still Women's Rogaine with 2% minoxidil ($43, amazon.com), which works by reactivating dormant hair follicles. After several months of regular use, your hair may appear less thin, and your scalp may be blanketed with new growth. The downside: The required twice-daily application can literally cramp your style — it's greasy stuff.

One potential cosmetic option: Hair by RevitaLash Hair Conditioner  While this foam does not claim to regrow hair like Rogaine (or it would require FDA approval as a drug), it does contain an ingredient — called a prostaglandin analog — that's in the same family as the one used in Latisse, the FDA-approved lash-growth product. "It's possible that a prostaglandin could work," says Dr. Bergfeld. Dr. Cotsarelis questions whether it could penetrate the scalp deeply enough to spur hair regrowth.

7. Decide when it's time for expert intervention.
If your hair is shedding at a rate you find alarming, it's time to see a doctor. Whereas hair thinning is primarily genetic, "hair shedding can be caused by a host of different medical issues," says Dr. Cotsarelis. A doctor can rule out — or treat — everything from a thyroid condition to an iron deficiency. "Perimenopausal women sometimes get anemic due to erratic, heavy bleeding," says Dr. Bergfeld. "Once iron levels are restored to the mid-range of normal, hair growth returns in four to eight months."

8. Don't rule out hair transplant surgery.
To fill in larger patches, hair-transplant surgery — which involves moving healthy hair follicles from where they're plentiful to sparser areas — can be "really beautiful," says Dr. Bergfeld, if you can afford it. (A hair transplant costs between $3,000 and $15,000, depending on who does it and how much hair is involved.) Transplanted hair should take hold in its new location within four to six months, which restarts normal growth. But consult with a dermatologist before seeing a hair-restoration specialist to make sure you're really a good candidate for surgery.